The Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop: A 21-Day Itinerary from Perth
Many Western Australian loops start gently and finish with a long return leg. This one does the opposite. The Pilbara legs come first, while you still have legs for long days and a focus on early starts. By the time you arrive on the Coral Coast, the heavy lifting is done, and the pace can drop. The reward for getting the inland slog out of the way early is that the back half of the trip, from Exmouth south to Perth, becomes a series of short coastal hops with time to actually stop and look.
This 21-day anticlockwise loop takes you from Perth into the Pilbara via the Great Northern Highway, across to the Ningaloo Coast at Exmouth, and back down through Coral Bay, the Kennedy Range and Shark Bay. While the route is predominantly sealed bitumen, there are several key unsealed stretches you need to plan for:
- Day 4: The unsealed spur road into Kalamina Gorge.
- Day 7: The Nanutarra-Munjina and Roebourne-Wittenoom Roads heading north into Millstream-Chichester.
- Day 9: The remote, unsealed Millstream-to-Pannawonica track (Millstream-Yarraloola Road).
- Days 15 & 17: The unsealed drive on Ullawarra Road between Gascoyne Junction and Temple Gorge Campground in the Kennedy Range.
- Day 19: Francois Peron National Park (strictly high-clearance 4WD, unhitched soft-sand tracks requiring low tyre pressures).
Except for the deep sand in Francois Peron, these gravel sections are generally suitable for off-road or sturdy semi-off-road caravans driven to the conditions with reduced tyre pressures. Average daily travel legs are comfortably under 500 km, with dedicated multi-night stops built in at Exmouth, Karijini, and Shark Bay where the landscape demands far more than a rushed overnight camp.
This itinerary can be lengthened or shortened. We make suggestions for both after the itinerary listing (see now).
Why Anticlockwise?
The standard advice is to head north up the coast and return inland. The standard advice is wrong for this loop, for one practical reason: the inland leg from Perth to Karijini is a 1,380 km haul that punishes tired drivers. Doing it in the first days, while you are fresh and the rig is freshly serviced, gets the hardest driving out of the way. By the time you reach the coast at Exmouth on Day 9, the trip transitions into shorter drives, more time at each stop, and the kind of pace that suits a 14-day Ningaloo wander.
We have done this trip once in each direction, and anticlockwise is the way to do it. Doing the long haul back down the Great Northern Highway from Dales after the trip has peaked is a soul-crushing anticlimax.
The other advantage is fuel and food logistics. Perth to Karijini takes you through the Wheatbelt and the Mid West, where supplies are reliable, and prices are reasonable. The Pilbara legs are the most expensive part of the trip, but you arrive with full tanks, full fridges and a clean rig. Coming back down the coast, you can resupply at Carnarvon and Geraldton on the way home, when the budget is already tight.
A Note on Pace
If you have more time, take it. The Perth to Meekatharra leg on Day 1 is deliberately heavy at 772 km, designed for travellers who want to break the back of the inland push in one hit. If you prefer a more relaxed pace, you can easily break the Perth to Dales Gorge run into 3 or 4 days, with overnight stops at New Norcia, Mt Magnet and Newman. Mt Magnet has a decent caravan park, and The Granites just north of town are worth an hour. Newman has supermarket-grade resupply, and a free rest area just south on Marble Bar Road. Adding two days to the start of this itinerary is the single best upgrade you can make if your schedule allows.
Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop Quick Facts
- Duration: 21 days
- Distance: 4,291 km
- Start / Finish: Perth / Perth
- Best Months: May to September (mild winter temperatures, lower rainfall, ideal gorge hiking and reef conditions)
- Road Conditions: Primarily sealed highway (Brand, North West Coastal, and Great Northern Highways) with extensive unsealed gravel sections into national parks (Karijini, Kennedy Range, Francois Peron) featuring corrugations, dust, and occasional rough limestone
- Caravan Suitability: Suitable for off-road and rugged hybrid caravans; standard on-road caravans should stick to sealed routes and day-trip into off-road parks like Kennedy Range or Millstream
- Camping Cost: Mixed; ranges from free roadside rest stops and budget DBCA national park camp fees ($15 per adult/night) to premium commercial caravan parks in Exmouth, Coral Bay, and Monkey Mia ($45–$100+ per night)
- Fuel Availability: Reliable at regular roadhouse intervals along major highways; carry reserve fuel for remote off-highway park runs (such as Karijini to Millstream Chichester or Kennedy Range loops). If you need need a refuel on the leg, check that fuel is available in Pannawonica before committing yourself.
- Mobile Reception: Telstra coverage is dependable across towns and primary highway corridors; very patchy to non-existent deep inside gorges, Kennedy Range, and remote park trails
- Pet Suitability: Low; major attractions are located within national parks (Karijini, Cape Range, Francois Peron, Kennedy Range) where domestic pets are prohibited
- Highlights: Fern Pool and gorge hikes in Karijini, paperbark pools of Millstream Chichester, world-class reef snorkelling at Turquoise Bay, marine life at Coral Bay and Monkey Mia, and the ancient ochre escarpment at Kennedy Range
- Difficulty: Moderate to Adventurous; involves long outback driving stints, remote unsealed driving, and Grade 4–5 gorge hikes requiring good physical agility
- Who This Trip Suits: Self-contained road trippers, active hikers, snorkelers, and 4WD tourers seeking an immersive blend of rugged red-dirt outback and pristine coral reef coastlines
- Last Verified: September, 2026
Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop Map
To aid in your planning, we have carefully prepared a map of the route. Later in the article, there is an interactive map for more information (jump to interactive map).
The Itinerary at a Glance
- Day 1: Perth to Meekatharra.
- Day 2: Meekatharra to Karijini (Dales Gorge Campground).
- Day 3: Dales Gorge. Park day.
- Day 4: Dales Gorge to Karijini Eco Resort via Kalamina Gorge.
- Day 5: Karijini Eco Resort. Western Gorges.
- Day 6: Karijini Eco Resort. Western Gorges.
- Day 7: Karijini to Millstream Chichester National Park.
- Day 8: Millstream Chichester. Park day.
- Day 9: Millstream to Exmouth via Pannawonica.
- Day 10: Exmouth. Rest day.
- Day 11: Cape Range National Park.
- Day 12: Cape Range National Park.
- Day 13: Cape Range National Park.
- Day 14: Exmouth to Coral Bay.
- Day 15: Coral Bay to Kennedy Range.
- Day 16: Kennedy Range. Park day.
- Day 17: Kennedy Range to Shark Bay.
- Day 18: Shark Bay. Monkey Mia day.
- Day 19: Shark Bay. Francois Peron National Park.
- Day 20: Shark Bay to Galena Bridge Rest Area.
- Day 21: Galena Bridge to Perth.
The Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop Itinerary
This itinerary covers 21 days and covers a lot of ground, so we have split it into three parts rather than one long scroll. Each part is a self-contained leg with its own detailed page covering campgrounds, walk distances and road conditions. This page gives you the overview and the reasoning behind the order. You do not need to read all three in one sitting, and if you are only tackling part of the loop (the Coral Coast alone, say, or a Perth-based Karijini run), each part stands on its own.
The order matters. We detail the trip anticlockwise specifically so the long inland driving in Part 1 comes first, with the long drive with one of the trips highlight at the end. Part 2 takes you to Ningaloo and Coral Bay where things slow down. Part 3 takes you back toward Perth via Shark Bay and the Gascoyne.
Due to the length of this itinerary, we have broken it into three parts. This page provides an overview of the itinerary and key details.
Part 1: Inland and Gorges (Perth to Karijini and Millstream)
8 days | 1,712 km | Sealed throughout except the Kalamina Gorge spur and the Hamersley Gorge access road
The inland leg has the longest driving days on the loop, so it is best done while you are fresh. Two long transit days from Perth get you to Karijini. Here you’ll find the iconic Pilbara gorges, which provide five days of gorge walking. The leg finishes with a short drive north to Millstream Chichester and Python Pool.
This is where the Pilbara shows off. You will brace your way through the Spider Walk to Kermit’s Pool, lower yourself down a handrail into Handrail Pool, and swim in a natural rock spa fed by a waterfall at Hamersley Gorge, all on rock that is 2.5 billion years old. Add a soak at Python Pool under the Chichester escarpment, and you have five of the best swimming holes in WA inside eight days.
Part 2: The Coral Coast (Exmouth, Ningaloo and Coral Bay)
6 days | 690 km | Sealed throughout except the Millstream-Pannawonica Road
The reward leg. A crossing from Millstream to the coast delivers you into three days based at Cape Range National Park on the Ningaloo Reef, before a short hop south to Coral Bay.
This is the Ningaloo everyone talks about. Drift the reef at Turquoise Bay, time the tide for the coral gardens at Oyster Stacks, and watch black-flanked rock wallabies work the walls of Yardie Creek gorge. At Coral Bay, walk straight off the beach into the reef at Bills Bay, or book the all-day boat trip for a close encounter with resident manta rays.
Part 3: Shark Bay and the Gascoyne
7 days | 1,839 km | Sealed throughout except the Kennedy Range access road and the Francois Peron 4WD tracks
The homeward leg with a deviation inland to the red sandstone walls of the Kennedy Range before finishing at the World Heritage waters of Shark Bay.
Watch the sun rise over the Kennedy Range escarpment, then climb the Escarpment Trail for one of the best outback panoramas in WA. At Shark Bay, swim at the shell-white sands of Shell Beach, watch the wild dolphins at Monkey Mia, and drop tyre pressures for the red dunes and turquoise water of Francois Peron National Park before the long run back to Perth.
Changing the Itinerary Length
This itinerary is built around a specific balance: it covers the most sought-after destinations in WA (Karijini, Ningaloo, Shark Bay) alongside a couple of under-visited spots (Millstream Chichester, the Kennedy Range) that give the trip some contrast against a standard coastal run. Our recommendation is to do it as written if you can. The 21 days are not padding; every stop earns its place. That said, not everyone has three weeks up their sleeve or wants to drive it in one hit, so here is how to adjust it in either direction without losing what makes the loop work. Your experience will be richer if you are fortunate enough to take longer.
Lengthening the Trip
There are plenty of ways to stretch this loop out, and most travellers with the time to spare should take at least some of them.
The simplest option is to break up the longer driving legs over more days rather than push through in one hit. Newman, Nanutarra Roadhouse and Bullara Station all make sensible overnight splits on the heavier transit days, and turning a 600-plus km slog into two shorter days makes a real difference to how fresh you feel when you arrive.
The second option is to simply stay longer in the areas that deserve it. Karijini and the Exmouth area are the two standouts: both have enough gorges, walks and snorkel sites to fill extra days without repeating yourself, and neither rewards being rushed.
The third option is to extend the trip further south before heading back to Perth. Kalbarri and the Jurien Bay/Cervantes area (to visit the Pinnacles Desert) both sit naturally on the route home and are worth the detour if you have the days. Sandy Cape, between Jurien Bay and Cervantes, is a particular highlight worth building in if you go this way.
Shortening the Trip
How you shorten this loop depends on where you are starting from.
If you live in Perth, keep Karijini and Millstream in the itinerary. Both are a long way from home and this loop is the easiest way to justify the drive. Exmouth and Shark Bay, on the other hand, are the areas to cut if you need to shorten the trip: they are close enough that you can easily come back for a dedicated coastal trip another time.
If you are travelling from interstate, Karijini, the Exmouth area and Shark Bay are the three destinations you should not cut. These are the reason most interstate travellers make the trip in the first place, and skipping them defeats the purpose of coming this far.
If you do need to trim the itinerary, cut in this order: Millstream first, then the Kennedy Range, then Shark Bay, and only then Exmouth if you are still short on time. Millstream and the Kennedy Range are the least-known stops on the loop and the easiest to leave for a future trip. Karijini, Shark Bay and Exmouth are the highlights of this trip.
Interactive Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop Map
Below is your free interactive map. On the map are the campground locations, points of interest, starting points for walks, and fuel locations. Click on the campgrounds for information on them. Zoom in to see more details.
If you jumped here from earlier in the article, you can jump back to the same spot: Take me back to the static map.
Final Tips for the Pilbara and Coral Coast Loop
Fuel: The longest stretch without fuel is Newman to Pannawonica (675 km). Top up at every major town and carry one spare jerry can from Meekatharra north. Use Petrolspy or FuelMap to compare prices; the price difference between towns can be 30 cents per litre or more.
Water: Carry at least 100 L of drinking water and a reserve for washing. The national park camps at Karijini, Millstream and the Kennedy Range have no water available. Top up at every council-supplied tap when you get the chance: Mt Magnet, Newman, Tom Price, Exmouth, Carnarvon and Denham all have public fill points.
Tyre pressures: Run highway pressures (Caravan Tyre Pressure Calculator) on sealed bitumen. Drop to 28 to 32 PSI for the graded gravel sections (Kalamina Rd, Roebourne-Wittenoom Road, Kennedy Range access). Drop further to 18 to 20 PSI for the deep sand of Francois Peron. Carry a 12V compressor with a minimum flow rate of 150 L/min for re-inflation.
Booking ahead: Coral Bay, Cape Range National Park, the Karijini Eco Resort and the Monkey Mia resort all require bookings well in advance for peak season (May to September). Book by February for a winter trip.
Heat and seasonality: The Pilbara is brutal from November to March, with daytime temperatures regularly above 45 °C and night-time lows above 30 °C. April to September is the practical travel window. June and July are the coolest months and the busiest; April, May, August and September are the shoulder seasons and the best balance of weather and crowds.
Mobile coverage: Telstra is the only network with reliable coverage on this route. Optus has coverage in major towns but drops out between them. However, Optus has signal in Karijini where Telstra does not. If you need to stay connected, you need Telstra. Plan offline map downloads (Hema Explorer or Maps.me) accordingly. However, if you have Starlink, you have no such problems.
Self-contained requirements: All of the national park camps and the Galena Bridge rest area require self-containment. Make sure your grey-water capture, toilet and waste systems are in order before you leave Perth.
Wildlife: Kangaroos, emus and cattle from Meekatharra north. Cattle are the real menace in the Pilbara as they wander onto unfenced sections of road without warning. Avoid driving in the first or last hour of daylight where possible.
Road trains: Constant from Meekatharra north and on the North West Coastal Highway. Set your UHF to channel 40 and listen. On single-lane bitumen sections, put two wheels on the gravel verge when meeting an oncoming road train and do not fight for your half of the road.
Wrapping Up
The anticlockwise loop works because it front-loads the difficulty. The first nine days are the test: long drives, remote camps, red dirt and the kind of fatigue that only resolves with a proper rest at Exmouth. By the time you arrive on the coast, the rig has proved itself, the routine is dialled in and the second half of the trip becomes the reward.
The Pilbara gets the marketing attention for Karijini, but Millstream Chichester is its quieter, spring-fed counterpart. Further south in the Gascoyne, the stark sandstone battlements of the Kennedy Range offer an equally rugged escape from the crowds. Both reward the traveller willing to drop tyre pressures for a graded gravel run. The Coral Coast does not need more selling; Ningaloo Reef, Coral Bay and Shark Bay are deservedly on every WA road trip list, and three weeks gives them the time they deserve.
Pack the spare jerry can, fill the water tank in Carnarvon and do not skip the dawn climb up the Kennedy Range escarpment. Perth will still be there when you get home. The Pilbara might not be the same again for a generation.
Safe travels, and we will see you out there.
